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Natural Fibres

Plain Weave

Twill Weave

Satin Weave


Compound Weaves

Patterned cloth


Textiles Miscellaneous

Textiles in specific cultures


  • "Identifying provenance: Flinders Petrie’s textile collection at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London". To be published in the 'Journal of the History of Collections': This article discusses an attempt to identify provenance details of textiles that came to the Victoria and Albert Museum, London through an association with Flinders Petrie. This study revealed that Petrie is responsible, directly or indirectly, for over 500 Egyptian textile pieces held at the V&A. He donated and sold items to the Museum while others came via individuals who had a direct connection with Petrie. The collection is mainly representative of the Late Antique period. Many of the textiles come from unknown sites while others had a site attributed to them on arrival or the study has revealed one. Sites to which they are attributed include Meidum, Tarkhan, the Fayum, Hawara, Kahun, Tanis, Oxyrhynchus, Qarara, the Qau el-Kebir and Badari district and Akhmim.

  • "Late Antique and Medieval headwear from Egypt in the Victoria and Albert Museum". (Smalley, R. 2014. Late Antique and Medieval headwear from Egypt in the Victoria and Albert Museum. BMSAES 21: 81–101) A corpus of Late Antique and Medieval Egyptian headwear was catalogued in 2012 for the Victoria and Albert Museum. The group presents a starting point from which to create a type-series and study fabrics and decorative techniques from the period. Headwear styles of the past show continuity with modern styles and the artefacts under study reinforce this idea. This article suggests a type-series and compares similar objects in literature and other collections.

  • "Japanese Lampas: 19th Century Patterned Silks Held at the Victoria & Albert Museum". (Smalley, R. 2014. Japanese Lampas: 19th Century Patterned Silks Held at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Text:for the study of textile art, design and history 41: 48-49) During 2012-2013 the Victoria & Albert Museum , London, moved its textile collection to Blythe House. During the move 30 Asian patterned silk samples, dating to the 19th century, were uncovered after lying hidden for many years. Museum records do not indicate how the pieces came to the V&A but they are noted as originating from Japan and China. Many date to the 1870s. Included in this group are five lampas weaves from Japan, which are the focus of this article.

  • "Dating Coptic footwear: a typological and comparative approach." (Smalley, R. 2013. Dating Coptic footwear: a typological and comparative approach. The Journal of Coptic Studies 2013: 97-136) A study was undertaken of the Coptic footwear held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Museum records give little detail on the provenance of the collection and excavation methods left no information so dating the objects is problematic. The study focuses on the potential for shoe construction, decorative techniques and comparative material to aid in developing a chronology for the footwear of the period. Typologies were developed for constructional and decorative aspects of the footwear and comparative material was examined for clues that might aid dating. Results were limited. Although dating in broad ranges is possible, more detail on the first appearance of footwear constructional elements is needed to strengthen decisions based on style. The use of a variety of decorative elements does not assist in narrowing date ranges but can offer a terminus post quem date in some cases. To improve the chronology of the period a study of comparative footwear from neighbouring countries is recommended, along with the study of well documented material from recent excavations and the application of scientific methods of dating.

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